Cup / Sprint Build Manual
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The Information and descriptions described herein are the property of MK Sportscars. Such descriptions and information may not be copied or reproduced (duplicated) by any means (in any form) or disseminated or distributed without the express prior written permission (consent) of MK Sportscars. The information contained in this document is subject to change without notice. MK Sportscars assumes no responsibility for any errors that may appear in this document.
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Table of Contents
- Introduction
- IVA
- Safety First
- Torquing of Bolts
- Assembly Project Plan
- Fitting The Pedal Box
- Fitting The Brake Lines
- Fitting The Fuel Lines
- Fitting The Floor Pan
- Fitting The Rear Suspension And Differential
1. Introduction
MK Sportscars has produced thousands of cars since the company launched the MK Indy in 2000. We are constantly striving to improve our cars and options list available to further enhance the affordability and desire of the car our main goal driver behind the RX-5 project. The enjoyment of the car should be in its actual construction, This Build manual has been produced to assist with this part of the project. The purpose of building a MK RX-5 140 is to realise a car that will suit the purpose for which it is intended. If this is a Road car or Track-based car, we have many thousands of satisfied owners in all categories both here and overseas who have had the enjoyment of building a MK. MK Sportscars will continue to offer the support to help deliver to you the means and advice of building a car, simply and quickly, with minimum complication and a maximum amount of fun. This manual is for the guidance of building the MK Indy and should also be used alongside the current IVA manual if you are looking at building a road registered car. If at any stage of the build you are unsure, please contact MK Sportscars for guidance or seek professional mechanical knowledge from a reputable and qualified company or individual. MK Sportscars hope you enjoy the experience.
1.1 Manual Conventions
Throughout this manual there are important details which must be followed. These are highlighted with the following icons.
2. IVA
For amateur build IVA compliance, you will need to have photographic evidence throughout the whole build process. Please ensure you take sufficient photographs of each step in the build. These will need to be submitted with your IVA application form. Each section where you need to take photographs will be marked in the manual – but you can never have too many pictures of your build, it’s great to look back on in years to come.
3. Safety First
ALWAYS WEAR:
- GOGGLES OR PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND SUITABLE FOOTWEAR IF YOU ARE USING WELDING OR GRINDING EQUIPMENT, THERE MAY BE OCCASIONS FOR THIS IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE OUT BUILD PARAMETERS,
- PROTECTIVE GLOVES WHEN HANDLING FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.
- DUST MASK AND EAR PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SUPPORTS YOU USE UNDER THE CHASSIS DURING THE BUILD PROCESS ARE SUITABLE AND SAFE FOR USE. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY +VE LEAD UNTIL THE WIRING LOOM HAS BEEN FULLY INSTALLED AND ALL EARTH CABLES HAVE BEEN CONNECTED. THE BATTERY MUST NOT BE CONNECTED UNTIL ALL TESTS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. DO NOT FILL THE FUEL TANK UNTIL THE CAR IS COMPLETE. PLEASE TAKE CARE WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BRAKE FLUID SPILLAGE AND ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURES GUIDELINES. IT IS ADVISABLE TO HAVE A SUITABLE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AT HAND. ENJOY YOUR BUILD AND BE SAFE AND MOST IMPORTANTLY HAVE FUN
4. Torquing of Bolts
Always refer to the Torque Settings in the manufacturer’s manual If you do not own a Torque Wrench, WE STRONGLY ADVISE YOU TO PURCHASE ONE FOR THE BUILDING AND MAINTAINING OF YOUR VEHICLE.
5. Assembly Project Plan
To help you with the assembly, we’ve added a project plan you can print out on your garage wall, and tick off the jobs as you do them. Some of these may already be done, and others will need completing in order to build your dream sports car.
This is available in the “files” section of the super builders group.
6. Fitting the Pedal Box
As standard, the billet aluminium pedal box comes complete as a kit with two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuits and an internal master cylinder for the clutch.
1x Fully assembled 3 pedal box.
1x brake balance bar
1x 0.700 master cylinder (Front circuit)
1x 0.75 master cylinder (Rear circuit)
1x 0.625 master cylinder with internal reservoir (Clutch)
6x M8 x 30 dome head bolts
6x M8 washers
6x M8 nylock nuts
6.1. Trim to Fit
The Pedal box is an off the peg standard fitment pedal box. The bulkhead of the vehicle is designed to house the pedal box with laser cut plates for the fittings on the firewall.
6.2. Assemble the brake bias bar
Fit the brake bias bar to the brake pedal in preparation for the master cylinders to fit.
6.3. Locking off the Brake Bias Bar For IVA
For IVA compliance, the brake bias bar needs drilling and locking off.
Wind the bias bar towards the front circuit of the braking system as a base setting.
If preparing the vehicle for IVA, add 2 nuts (7/16 UNF) either side of the brake pedal. Drill a small hole through the bias bar and add a split pin to prevent the nuts from being able to be removed and the bias bar from being adjusted.
6.4. Adjusting the Throttle Stop
When supplied, there may be a throttle stop already fitted to the peddle box on the inside which is not required. Because the foot well is so small, and access is restrictive we do not use this method for the peddle stop. Remove this throttle stop bolt now and set aside. We supply a longer M6 x 60mm bolt / washer and M6 nut for the throttle stop which is fitted after the peddle box is installed through the firewall and adjusted from inside the engine compartment.
Picture below is for reference only and shows where throttle stop is positioned in peddle box. This should be fitted after peddle box is bolted into chassis.
Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to brake pedal balance bar slot and to balance bar bearing ensuring the bearing moves freely, also apply a small amount of grease to the ends of the master cylinder push rod threads (this makes winding the threads into the pedals easier).
Slide the balance bar into the brake pedal ensuring that the balance bar bearing is located centrally and the longer end of the bar points away from the centre tunnel. Fit the large nylon washers and cylinder push rod connectors. Note: Do not tighten the connectors against the washers tightly, these are designed to move and need some slack to enable the bar to pivot. As a guide, wind connectors into the face of the washer and then unwind by half a turn each side, see pictures below showing the bar pivoting.
6.5 Fitting The Pedal Box
Now prepared, the pedal box can be bolted into the vehicle. This is fixed to the bulkhead panel by the master cylinder bolts. With the peddle box sitting inside the drivers footwell, feed each of the master cylinders through each hole making sure you use this configuration listed above.
Bolt the master cylinders to the bulkhead panel through the pedal box using the M8x30 dome headed bolts provided in the kit. Use washers and Nyloc nuts to secure the master cylinders and peddle box together.
Note : The bolts provided in the pedal box pack are too short and do not expose enough thread for IVA. Your nut and bolt kit includes longer 30mm bolts.
Once fitted, screw in the 3x brake and clutch master cylinder push rods into pedals until the pedals are vertical. Ensure that all lock nuts (x6) are tightened once desired pedal positions is achieved.
Adjust throttle peddle position to suit using the adjuster screw on the front of the peddle. Leave the throttle stop bolt loose for now as this will be adjusted once the engine and throttle body/cable are fitted.
6.6 Connecting Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir
If your kit has a remote brake fluid master cylinder, use an 3/8 UNF barb (available from MK Sports Cars) which allows the rubber pipe from the reservoir to be jubilee clipped to each master cylinder and then run up to the reservoir. It’s a good idea to fit the barb now into the two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuit.
Note: It is possible to use our “Girling” style brake reservoirs screwed directly into the top of each front / rear master cylinder. You will need to drill and glue the DIY float level into the cap for IVA compliance.
6.7 Fitting Brake Bias Warning Sticker
Now that the bulkhead is exposed, the safety stickers for IVA compliance need to be stuck to the inside of the bulkhead between the brake and clutch pedal and within the engine compartment as shown:
7. Fitting The Brake Lines
Depending on which vehicle you are building, you may have in your kit either a complete braided hose kit, or copper and braided hoses.
All routing of the brake lines is the same regardless if you are using braided or the traditional copper based brake lines. Either are compatible for the IVA process if you are building a road legal vehicle.
7.1. Brake Switch 4 way T & Front Brake Lines
Towards the front of the chassis directly in the middle between the two wishbones is an M6 mounting boss for the 4 way brake T. This houses a feed from the master cylinder, the brake switch and the left and right braided lines. Secure the 4 way T in this location using a 6mm bolt (not supplied).
Once the 4 way T is installed, the feed from the front circuit can be run.
For ease of installation, you can use either p clips riveted to the chassis using closed head rivets, or it’s possible to use figure of 8 tie wraps ensuring the brake lines are not touching the chassis rails following the route show in the picture below.
{INSERT PICTURE}
Following out from the left and right sections of the 4 way T, braided hoses or copper pipe can be routed to mounting bracket on the chassis, again, using either p clips or figure 8 tie wraps ensuring secure fitment.
NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING THE BRAIDED HOSES KIT INSTEAD OF COPPER, THE HOSES ARE LONG ENOUGH TO REACH THE CALIPER DIRECTLY.
NOTE2 : ENSURE THE BRAKE CALIPER END IS A 1/8NPT THREAD, AND THE 4 WAY HOSE IS AN M10 X 1 THREAD. If the brake fitting only winds in a few turns, you have the wrong end. While M10 x 1 and 1/8npt are very similar looking, they are different and should wind in several turns.
The male M10 x 1 to male 1/8npt for Wilwood calipers needs to then be fitted to the end of the braided brake line. It’s connected in the following way:
NOTE: THE POINTED END GOES INTO THE BRAIDED LINE, AND THE FLAT END IS WRAPPED IN PTFE TAPE AND WOUND INTO THE CALIPER. THE CALIPER END IS FITTED TO THE CALIPER FIRST.
7.2. Rear Brake 3 Way T
At the rear of the vehicle is another 6mm mounting boss for the 3 way brake T. Secure this here with an M6 bolt (not provided).
Note : If using a braided line front to back, wind the thread onto the bottom thread of 3 way T before securing this to the chassis as this will prevent you from having to unwind the front to rear brake line.
7.3. Front to Rear Brake lines
Route the front to rear brake lines using the track system provided on the chassis. Depending if you are RHD or LHD you can secure the brake lines to the appropriate track using small tie wraps to the lower holes in the track. The electrics will be mounted above the brake lines later in the build.NOTE: AS YOU ROUTE THE BRAKE LINE AROUND THE BACK TRANSMISSION TUNNEL CHASSIS RAIL, ENSURE SPLIT DUCTING IS USED TO PROTECT THE BRAKE LINES FROM ANY SHARP EDGES.
7.4. Rear Brake Lines
Similar to the front, these will be either fully braided, or a mixture of copper and braided out to the caliper. Secure the brake hose to the left or right output of the 3 way T then secure this to the chassis using either P clips with closed head rivets, or figure 8 tie wraps.
NOTE: WE ADVISE FOR IVA COMPLIANCE BRAKE PIPE FIXINGS SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 250MM BETWEEN EACH FIXING POINT
8. Fitting the Fuel Line
The single fuel line is secured front to back on the chassis via the track system. Use the same bottom track as the brake lines, but on the opposite side of the transmission tunnel. These are secured to the track system using small tie wraps.
Rubber fuel pipe pipe should be covered with protective split conduit for IVA.
{INSERT PICTURE}
Ensure there is sufficient pipe protruding into the engine bay to connect to the throttle bodies – Approx 600 mm
Route the fuel line around the rear of the vehicle using the following path using either closed head rivets or figure of 8 tie wraps.
NOTE: WE ADVISE FOR IVA COMPLIANCE FUEL PIPE FIXINGS SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 300MM BETWEEN EACH FIXING POINT. WE RECOMMEND TO AIM FOR 250MM
{insert picture}NOTE: ENSURE THE COPPER/RUBBER FUEL PIPE IS PROTECTED WITH SPLIT CONDUIT TO PREVENT CHAFING.
9. Fitting Floor Pan
We recommend our YouTube channel for this video on how to fit the floorplan.
The aluminium floor panels are supplied covered with a protective film do not remove until ready for final fitment.
Aluminium 4.8mm x 12.5 sealed head rivets should be used for securing the panels to the floor of the chassis. The floor panels are laser cut with rivet holes already in place.
The process of fitting the aluminium panel to the chassis is consistent for all panels.
Locate the panel on the chassis to determine which side fits which and which way around it goes, then set aside.
Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the chassis rails where the holes have been drilled.
Ensure that sealant covers all holes.
Remove the protective film and fit the panel on the chassis insert rivets through every hole. This panel should be fitted while the sealant is still wet.
Using your rivet gun secure the rivets and remove any excess sealant with a cloth and white spirit.
10. Fitting The Rear Suspension And Differential
Note: There is a technical video on our YouTube channel on how to fit the rear end of the Indy R and RR.
See here: https://youtu.be/WUXBZiKdoqI
10.1. Nut and Bolts Required
In order to fit the rear section of the car, the following nuts and bolts are required.