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Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. IVA
3. Safety First
4. Torquing of Bolts
5. Donor Car Paperwork
6. Initial Setup
7. Fitting Of The Floor Mounted Peddle Box
8. Making The Brake Lines
9. Fitting The Electrical Lines Mounting Brackets
10. Fitting The Fuel Pipes
11. Fuel System
12. Dry Fitting The Interior Panels
13. Fitting Floor Pan
14. The Differential
15. Fitting The Fuel Tank
16. Rear Suspension
17. Fitting The Rear Braking System
18. Fitting The Side Panels 
19. Fitting The Rear Panel
20. Fitting The Roll Bar/Cage
21. Fitting The Front Suspension
22. Fit The Front Brakes
23. Fitting The Front Wing Stays
24. Fitting The Steering Rack
25. Fitting The Upper & Lower Steering Column
26. Fitting The Rear Wheel Arches
27. Fitting The Engine and Gearbox
28. Cooling System
29. Fitting The Horn
30. Fitting The ECU Mounting Panel
31. Fitting The Dashboard
32. Coolant System Continued
33. Fit The Battery Mounting System
34. Fit The Bulkhead Panel
35. Fit The Chassis Plate
36. Fit Air Flow Meter
37. Fitting The Nose Cone
38. Prepare The Bonnet and Nose Cone
39. Fit The Underside of The Side Panel
40. Fit The Bonnet Catches
41. Fitting The Fuel Cap
42. Fitting The Exhaust & Bracket
43. Fitting The Stripe Kit
44. Fitting The Side Panel Caps
45. Fitting The Boot Cover
46. Fitting The Lights
47. Fitting The Dashboard

 

 1. Introduction

MK Sportscars has produced thousands of cars since the company launched the MK Indy in 2000. We are constantly striving to improve our cars and options list available to further enhance the affordability and desire of the car our main goal driver behind the RX-5 project. The enjoyment of the car should be in its actual construction, This Build manual has been produced to assist with this part of the project. The purpose of building a MK RX-5 140 is to realise a car that will suit the purpose for which it is intended. If this is a Road car or Track-based car, we have many thousands of satisfied owners in all categories both here and overseas who have had the enjoyment of building a MK. MK Sportscars will continue to offer the support to help deliver to you the means and advice of building a car, simply and quickly, with minimum complication and a maximum amount of fun. This manual is for the guidance of building the MK Indy and should also be used alongside the current IVA manual if you are looking at building a road registered car. If at any stage of the build you are unsure, please contact MK Sportscars for guidance or seek professional mechanical knowledge from a reputable and qualified company or individual. MK Sportscars hope you enjoy the experience. 

1.1 Manual Conventions

Throughout this manual there are important details which must be followed. These are highlighted with the following icons.

2. IVA

 

For amateur build IVA compliance, you will need to have photographic evidence throughout the whole build process. Please ensure you take sufficient photographs of each step in the build. These will need to be submitted with your IVA application form. Each section where you need to take photographs will be marked in the manual – but you can never have too many pictures of your build, it’s great to look back on in years to come. 

3. Safety First

 

ALWAYS WEAR:

• GOGGLES OR PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND SUITABLE FOOTWEAR IF YOU ARE USING WELDING OR GRINDING EQUIPMENT, THERE MAY BE OCCASIONS FOR THIS IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE OUT BUILD PARAMETERS,
• PROTECTIVE GLOVES WHEN HANDLING FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.
• DUST MASK AND EAR PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SUPPORTS YOU USE UNDER THE CHASSIS DURING THE BUILD PROCESS ARE SUITABLE AND SAFE FOR USE. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY +VE LEAD UNTIL THE WIRING LOOM HAS BEEN FULLY INSTALLED AND ALL EARTH CABLES HAVE BEEN CONNECTED. THE BATTERY MUST NOT BE CONNECTED UNTIL ALL TESTS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. DO NOT FILL THE FUEL TANK UNTIL THE CAR IS COMPLETE. PLEASE TAKE CARE WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BRAKE FLUID SPILLAGE AND ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURES GUIDELINES. IT IS ADVISABLE TO HAVE A SUITABLE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AT HAND. ENJOY YOUR BUILD AND BE SAFE AND MOST IMPORTANTLY HAVE FUN

4.  Torquing of Bolts

Always refer to the Torque Settings in the manufacturer’s manual If you do not own a Torque Wrench, WE STRONGLY ADVISE YOU TO PURCHASE ONE FOR THE BUILDING AND MAINTAINING OF YOUR VEHICLE.

4.1. Torque Setting Guidelines

Settings Values	ft-lbs	Nm
Three Way Brake Pipe Unions	5	7
Rear Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts (Steel)	40	54
Steering Rack Mounting Bolts to Chassis	20	27
Track Rod End Nuts to Steering Arm	28	38
Wishbone Securing Bolts to Chassis	30	40
Lower Ball Joint Securing Bolts to Wishbone	25	34
Lower Ball Joint Nut to Upright	28	38
Steering Column Upper Mounting Bolts	20	27	**
Steering Column Shaft Couplings	20	27	**
Steering Column Securing Clamp	28	38	**
Front Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts (Steel)	40	54	*
Shock Absorber to Chassis Mounting Bolts	30	40
Prop shaft to Differential Securing Bolts	40	50	*
Handbrake Mounting Bolts	22	30
Seat Belt Mounting Bolts	26	35
Steering Wheel Nut	35	47
Wheel Nuts (Rimstock)	65	90
6mm Bolts	9	12
8mm Bolts	18	24
9mm Bolts	20	27
10mm Bolts	28	39

 

Notes:

* Apply a Thread Locking Adhesive to threads when fitting bolts and Nyloc Nuts will be Torque tightened during the Set-Up stage. We advise during the assembly of the suspension that ALL suspension bolts and Nyloc Nuts are `NIPPED’ ONLY and NOT Torque tightened until full build complete with the weight of the car is completed, once you have torqued your bolts be sure to mark them with a paint line to ensure you complete the torquing of the car and for future checking and maintenance,

5. Donor Car Paperwork

To avoid any issues in the future, make sure you update your V5C and SORN declaration to your name and address only. It is possible to SORN the donor car from the website
https://www.gov.uk/make-a-sorn

It is possible to Transfer the vehicle into your name from the website https://www.gov.uk/sold-bought-vehicle

Alternatively, you can send the relevant V5C in the post to Swansea (details on the V5C logbook)

6. Initial Setup 

Lift and Position the Chassis onto your suitable support. You will require additional help with this and ensure you do not over stretch yourself with the weight of the chassis ensure there is enough room to allow fitment of various parts.

Do Not Attempt to Modify Any Of The Items Supplied Without Contacting MK Sportscars

6.1. Bodywork Storage

The Bodywork MUST NOT be Stored in Plastic Sheet, in Damp or Humid Conditions. DO NOT Store Bodywork in Direct Sunlight, in Greenhouses or Conservatories. MK Sportscars WILL NOT accept any WARRANTY CLAIM for Damage to Bodywork where the Damage has been caused by any of the above conditions.

6.2. Chassis Information

The Chassis is supplied bare unless the powder coating option is specified at the time of ordering.

6.3. Tools

• Haynes manual for the appropriate year of your donor car
• Combination Spanner Set: 8mm to 19mm
• A/F Metric Combination Socket Set
• Drill Bits Metric
• Allen Key Set
• Circlip Pliers
• Internal And External Taps (Note: The taps are only required to clean out the residual powder coating)
• Hole Cutters (Various sizes)
• Pop Rivet Gun
• Brake Pipe Bending and Flaring Tool
• Rivnut Fixing Kit
• Electric Drill, with a 90° adaptor
• 12" Hacksaw
• Hammer Centre Punch
• Rubber Mallet
• 'G' Clamps
• Bench Vice
• Flat and Phillips Screwdrivers
• Set of Round Files
• Steel Tape Measure
• Metal Cutters
• Copper Slip
• Silicon Sealant (Tiger Seal PU18 Black Flexible Polyurethane Adhesive)
• Silicone Grease
• Torque Wrench, ½” Square Drive with a range to 250 lb ft.
• Dremel (ideal for trimming bodywork)
• Heat Gun
• Touch-up Paint Stick (To mark bolts after tightening)
• Thread Lock (Low, medium and high strength) 

6.4. Donor Vehicle

Stripping the required parts from the Donor Vehicle ALWAYS refer to a relevant workshop manual for technical guidance and safety advice. MK Sports Cars have produced guides to assist with the stripping of the donor cat and preparing the parts. Upon removal, check the condition of the donor parts for wear or damage and replace as necessary. Listed below are the parts that you will typically require from the Mazda MX5 to complete your build.

• Vehicle Registration Document
• Engine and Gearbox with the following Ancillaries
• Alternator,
• Fuel Injection System & Plenum Chamber
• Starter Motor
• Clutch Slave Cylinder
• Gear Lever
• Exhaust Manifold
• Front Uprights including Brake Discs & Calipers
• Ball Joints, Steering Arms and Locking Nuts
• Rear Uprights including Brake Discs and Calipers
• Handbrake Cables and Lever
• Prop Shaft
• Differential
• Drive Shafts
• Upper and Lower Steering Column.
• Steering Wheel
• Wheels and Tyres
• Wiring Loom and Fuse Box
• Hazard Light Switch
• Fog Light Switch
• Dashboard Dimmer Switch
• Horn
• Dashboard Gauges
• Fuel Filter
• Fuel Filter Bracket and M6 Bolts
• Fuel Pump
• Any Fasteners.

6.5. Donor Part Modifications

Some donor parts require modification, The prop shaft will need to be shortened. This should be done by a reputable company, or MK Sports Cars can provide this service. Please see our price list for modification. The steering link bar will need to be extended, MK Sports Cars can also provide this service, please see our price list for modification. The parts, which need removing from the donor vehicle, can be seen in Figure 1.

Figure 1 - MX-5 Steering Link Bar (Exchange Component)

Figure 2 – MX-5 Steering Link Bar (Exchange Component)

 

7. Fitting Of The Billet Aluminium Pedal Box Floor Mounted

 As standard, the billet aluminium pedal box comes complete as a kit with two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuits and an additional master cylinder for the clutch.

Figure 7 - MK Branded Pedal box

• 1x Fully assembled 3 pedal box
• 1x brake balance bar
• 2x large balance bar washers
• 2x Balance bar nyloc nuts
• 1x 0.7 master cylinder with internal reservoir (Front circuit)
• 1x 0.75 master cylinder with internal reservoir (Rear circuit)
• 1x 0.625 master cylinder with internal reservoir (Clutch)
• 6x M8 x 30 dome head bolts
• 6x M8 washers
• 6x M8 nyloc nuts

7.1.1 Trim to Fit

The Pedal box is an off the peg standard fitment pedal box. The bulkhead of the RX-5 is designed to house the pedal box with laser cut plates for the fittings on the firewall, but the pedal box requires trimming to fit in the footwell of the RX-5. Using a grinder, remove the tabs on the right and left sides of the pedal box and then paint the bare steel once finished to prevent corrosion.

Figure 7.1 - Trimming to suit

7.1.2 Assemble The Brake Bias Bar

Fit the brake bias bar to the brake pedal in preparation for the master cylinders to fit.

 

7.1.3. Locking Off The Brake Bias Bar For IVA

For IVA compliance, the brake bias bar needs locking off.

Wind the bias bar towards the front circuit of the braking system and then add 2 Large washers along with the nyloc nuts (7/16 UNF) either side of the brake pedal. Optional: Drill a small hole through the bias bar and add a split pin to prevent the nuts from being able to be removed and the bias bar from being manually adjusted.

7.1.4 Adjusting The Throttle Stop

When supplied, there may be a throttle stop already fitted to the peddle box on the inside which is not required. Because the foot well is so small, and access is restrictive we do not use this method for the peddle stop. Remove this throttle stop bolt now and set aside. We supply a longer M6 x 60mm bolt / washer and M6 nut for the throttle stop which is fitted after the peddle box is installed through the firewall and adjusted from inside the engine compartment.

Figure 7.1.4 - Adjusting the throttle stop

Picture below is for reference only and shows where throttle stop is positioned in peddle box. This should be fitted after peddle box is bolted into chassis.

Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to brake pedal balance bar slot and to balance bar bearing ensuring the bearing moves freely, also apply a small amount of grease to the ends of the master cylinder push rod threads (this makes winding the threads into the pedals easier).

Slide the balance bar into the brake pedal ensuring that the balance bar bearing is located centrally and the longer end of the bar points away from the centre tunnel. Fit the large nylon washers and cylinder push rod connectors. Note: Do not tighten the connectors against the washers tightly, these are designed to move and need some slack to enable the bar to pivot. As a guide, wind connectors into the face of the washer and then unwind by half a turn each side, see pictures below showing the bar pivoting.

7.1.5 Fitting The Pedal Box

Now prepared, the pedal box can be bolted into the vehicle. This is fixed to the bulkhead panel by the master cylinder bolts. With the peddle box sitting inside the drivers footwell, feed each of the master cylinders through each hole making sure you use this configuration listed above.

Bolt the master cylinders to the bulkhead panel through the pedal box using the M8x30 dome headed bolts provided in the kit. Use washers and Nyloc nuts to secure the master cylinders and peddle box together.

Note : The bolts provided in the pedal box pack are too short and do not expose enough thread for IVA. Your nut and bolt kit includes longer 30mm bolts.

Once fitted, screw in the 3x brake and clutch master cylinder push rods into pedals until the pedals are vertical. Ensure that all lock nuts (x6) are tightened once desired pedal positions is achieved.

Adjust throttle peddle position to suit using the adjuster screw on the front of the peddle. Leave the throttle stop bolt loose for now as this will be adjusted once the engine and throttle body/cable are fitted.

7.2 Connecting Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir

If your kit has a remote brake fluid master cylinder, use an 3/8 UNF barb (available from MK Sports Cars) which allows the rubber pipe from the reservoir to be jubilee clipped to each master cylinder and then run up to the reservoir. It’s a good idea to fit the barb now into the two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuit.

Note: It is possible to use our “Girling” style brake reservoirs screwed directly into the top of each front / rear master cylinder. You will need to drill and glue the DIY float level into the cap for IVA compliance.

7.3 Fitting Brake Bias Warning Sticker

Now that the bulkhead is exposed, the safety stickers for IVA compliance need to be stuck to the inside of the bulkhead between the brake and clutch pedal and within the engine compartment as shown:

8 Making The Brake Lines 

Ensure you have the following components:

Description	Qty
Male M10 x 1 brake pipe T piece fittings	6
Male 3/8 UNF brake pipe master cylinder fitting	2
Female M10 x 1 brass brake fixing	4
3-way Brass T Piece	1
4-way Brass T Piece	1
Plastic 6mm P-clips	22
5mm dome head sealed blind rivets	22

8.1 Pre-make Your Brake Lines Before Bending To The Lengths Below.

Purpose	Length	Fitting A	Fitting B
Rear Nearside	460mm	Male M10 x 1	Female M10 x1
Rear Offside	460mm	Male M10 x 1	Female M10 x 1
Front Nearside	670mm	Male M10 x 1	Female M10 x 1
Front Offside	530mm	Male M10 x 1	Female M10 x 1
Front Master Cylinder to 4-way T	1050mm	Male 3/8 UNF	Male M10 x 1
Rear Cylinder to Rear 3-way T	2460mm	Male 3/8 UNF	Male M10 x 1
Front Distribution	4-way T	Female M10 x 1	Female M10 x 1
Rear Distribution	3-way T	Female M10 x 1	Female M10 x 1

 

8.2 Fitting The Brake Lines 

When bending the pipe always ensure smooth uniform bends. We recommend using a pipe bender if possible. Ensure that the brake pipes do not foul any nuts, bolts or moving parts 

DO NOT USE METAL CLIPS TO SUPPORT BRAKE PIPES OR ALLOW CONTACT WITH OTHER METAL PARTS. CAUTION! TAKE CARE WHEN FORMING BRAKE PIPES. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RE-BEND OR RE-MAKE INCORRECTLY FORMED BRAKE PIPE BENDS. THIS COULD RESULT IN POTENTIALLY LEAKS AND BRAKE FAILURE.

8.2.1 Brake Pipe Routing 

Route brake lines as shown in red below.

 

 

 

8.2.2 Fitting The Rear Brake Pipes

Secure the brass 3-way T-Piece from module 1 to the welded boss in the centre of the rear chassis behind the differential using M6 x 25mm cap head bolt and washer.

Secure the flexi-hoses to the fixing points at the rear of the chassis using the locknut provided. Note: You can leave these finger tight for now as the position may need to be adjusted when fitting the calliper to ensure the hose is not twisted.

Ensure the banjo fixing is at the calliper end, and the male M10 x 1 fixing is pointing inwards. Use pre-made 460mm brake pipes. The male connection at one end screws into the 3-way T, and a female socket at the other connects into the braided hose (see above). Screw the male end into the T piece and then route the brake pipe like this:

When the brake pipe crosses front to rear of the chassis rail, this is done just after the point of the triangulation chassis section as shown above. Secure the brake line using 1 plastic P-clip in position shown above ensuring the gap between solid fixings are no more than 300mm.

Note: P-clips securing the brake pipes in this location are IVA compliant. Repeat for the opposite side of the vehicle.

8.2.3 Fitting The Front Brake Pipes 

Fix the 4-way brake “T” to the welded-on boss to the right of the centre of the front lower chassis rail (viewed from the top). Fix using 25mm M6 cap head bolt and washer.

Note: If the boss is welded in the centre, ignore this, and use a rivnut to fix the 4-way tee to the chassis rail.

Use PTFE thread seal tape on hydraulic brake light switch thread and fit to brake T (do not overtighten).

Connect the 1050mm brake line from the pedal box to the 4-way brake T. You will need to manipulate this to fit around the chassis rail. Ensure the M10 x 1 male fixing is connected to the rearward facing inlet of the 4 way “T”

Note: Ensure you know which end of this brake line is M10x1, and which end is 3/8 UNF

Route the brake line from the front master cylinder to the 4 way “T” in the same direction as the pictures above.

Use the pre-made left and right brake lines to connect the front brakes to the 4 way “T” and secure all lines with P clips as shown.

Note: If you are building a race car or using the new SX bodywork, you will need to fit the brake pipes to the tabs welded to the chassis. If you are building a road car with classic bodywork, you may wish to ignore the brake fixing tabs on the chassis and connect to the braided hoses through the side panel instead. Ensure if drilling the hole through the side panel, it is close to where you brake end is located and not the exact dimensions later in the manual as your premade line may not be long enough.

8.2.4 Fitting The Front To Rear Brake Pipe

Brake pipe is fitted front to rear of the chassis following the route shown below. These are fixed to the bottom chassis rail by riveting P-clips around the brake pipe.

Note : Where the pipes run adjacent to the chassis tubes, they must be fixed using brake pipe P clips. These must be spaced not more than 250mm apart. To fit a clip, drill a hole in the chassis rail, insert the P clip around the pipe and secure with a rivet. 

Ensure you centre punch first when drilling holes in rounded chassis rails for the P-clip rivets. Note: Ensure brake pipes do not touch any part of the chassis to prevent abrasion of the brake lines. The brake lines are routed throughout the transmission tunnel like this: Brake pipes should be fitted to the chassis with p clips at the following intervals:

Flair one of the ends of the main front to back brake pipe. Lay the brake pipe inside the transmission tunnel from back to front so your newly flared end is at the master cylinder and begin the bending process. Securely fit brake fittings at both ends to master cylinder and brake T piece. Remember to prevent the brake pipe from touching the horizontal chassis rails as you pass from front to back. Allow at least a 5mm gap between the chassis rails and pipe to prevent any rubbing/abrasion in later years.

NOTE: Remember to take photographs of the brake pipe installation to use with your IVA submission.

9.  Fitting The Electrical Lines Mounting Brackets

The electrical system needs to be mounted to the chassis using saddle bushes and tie-wraps. These need to be fixed to the chassis now, while you don’t have the engine in the car, so you can drill the holes easily.

9.1 Front Fixings 

By the bulkhead panel, fix two saddle bushes 70mm from each of the right hand and left-hand edges.

Then fix two more saddle bushes on the underside of the offside top chassis rail, the first bush being 200mm from the inside edge of the chassis, and the other a further 250mm along.

Note: Make sure the saddle bush doesn’t obstruct the side panel – that it is position slightly off centre by a few mm.

9.2 Front To Back Fixings (Modified Mazda Loom). 

Drill and fix saddle bushes opposite the fuel pipe fixings. Directions of the electrical path can be seen in the image below. 

At this stage, it is also necessary to drill and fix saddle bushes along the inside edge of the centre tunnel uprights at 250mm intervals and to the rear chassis diagonal rails as shown.

9.3 MK Loom

Drill and fix saddle bushes opposite the fuel pipe fixings. Directions of the electrical path can be seen in the image below making sure the fixings are < 250mm between contact points.

 

10.  Fitting The Fuel Pipes

Note: If you are fitting an S2000 or K20 engine, please read the S2000 or K20 supplement manual for required modifications.

The fuel pipes run along the inside of the car from the bulkhead to the rear where the fuel pump and tank will be located. There are two pipes: flow and return. Each pipe is approx. 1500mm in length. The fuel pipes are run from front to back of the chassis and are mounted next to each other in a double p-clip arrangement along the top of the tunnel and are riveted with 4.8mm rivets to the chassis.

In the diagram below, the copper fuel lines are displayed in red while the rubber fuel lines are coloured in blue.

Note: Ensure the rubber fuel lines are wrapped in convoluted tube, also known as split duct.

 

Ensure that when the fuel pipes exit the transmission tunnel at the engine bay, they are not directly at the top of the chassis rail, as they need to be at least 30mm below the top chassis rail in order for the electrics to pass above them with some clearance.

Note: Ensure you take plenty of photographs of this step for your IVA application.

Around the diff housing, the fuel pipe is rubber so it can cope with numerous bends between the tank and the fuel filter. The rubber pipe is housed in convoluted plastic also known as “split duct” for added protection – take a picture of this for the IVA

There are 3 rivets which hold the rubber tube (in the plastic sheath) to the chassis. Working from the rear of the car forward, fix a double p clip to the brake pipe T piece bolt. Next, fit a double P-clip to chassis bar which measures 75mm from the wishbone chassis rail.

Next, drill a hole in the diff mounting plate and fix the flow on the top into the fuel filter, and the return on the bottom straight into the return pipe (nearest the driver side).

The feed pipe from the south side of the fuel filter, should then be connected to the copper fuel line which is nearest the passenger side of the transmission tunnel on the way forward to the engine.

Jubilee clip fit the rubber hoses to:

• Fuel filter inlet
• Fuel filter outlet
• Copper fuel supply pipe
• Copper fuel return pipe
• Tank fuel supply outlet
• Tank fuel supply inlet

Secure the fuel lines with P-clips as shown in the picture below at the to ensure IVA compliance.

11.  Fuel System

As standard, we use the Mazda fuel pump from the donor vehicle and the fuel filter (and bracket) from the donor vehicle. This is to keep with the proven fuel system developed my Mazda.

11.1. Fitting The Fuel Filter

Recondition the fuel filter mounting bracket from the MX-5 donor car.

Using 2x M6 bolts, fix the fuel filter on the plate across the rear of the chassis behind the driver’s seats. You can also use the bolts from the donor vehicle to fix this bracket to the car.

Note: fuel filter is positioned on the driver’s side.

12. Dry Fitting The Interior Panels

Before the floor is fitted it is recommended that you dry fit the interior panels, this minimises the drilling (and the swarf that’s created) when the floor is installed.

Clamp panels in place and drill through holes in panel using a 4mm drill bit. Insert rivets through panels into chassis to keep panels aligned. When fitting tunnel side panels ensure that the panel does not protrude below the bottom chassis rail as this will fowl the floor pan when fitted. Repeat the procedure for the tunnel top.

13. Fitting Floor Pan

We recommend our YouTube channel for this video on how to fit the floorplan.

The aluminium floor panels are supplied covered with a protective film do not remove until ready for final fitment.

Aluminium 4.8mm x 12.5 sealed head rivets should be used for securing the panels to the floor of the chassis. The floor panels are laser cut with rivet holes already in place.

The process of fitting the aluminium panel to the chassis is consistent for all panels.

Locate the panel on the chassis to determine which side fits which and which way around it goes, then set aside.

Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the chassis rails where the holes have been drilled.

Ensure that sealant covers all holes.

Remove the protective film and fit the panel on the chassis insert rivets through every hole. This panel should be fitted while the sealant is still wet.

Using your rivet gun secure the rivets and remove any excess sealant with a cloth and white spirit.

14. The Differential

14.1. Fixings Required

To fit the rear section of the car, the following nuts and bolts are required.

Size mm	Bolt	Washers	Nuts	Rose Joint	Location
M12 x 44					Poly bush halves
M12 x 44					Crush tubes
M12 x 60	12	24	12		Front and rear suspension
M12 x 70	16	32	16		Wishbone bolts front and rear
M12 x 195	2	4	2		Bottom rear uprights
M10 x 110	2	4	2		Top rear uprights
M12 x 130	2	4	2		Rear diff bolts through rubber mounts
M12 x 110	2	2	2		Rear diff mount front bolt
M10 x std Rose Joint			4	4	Rear Top A-arms

 

14.2. Modifying The Differential

The differential in a Mazda MX-5 are designed with a couple of notches cut out of the casting, see Figure 44. These are to provide better crash protection.

In normal applications this is fine, but when you install the same differential in an MK Indy (or similar) it potentially can break through normal use.

To overcome this weakness, MK Sportscars offer a service to strengthen the differential by welding additional plates onto the aluminium housing. The differentials are then good for 300+bhp at the wheels.

14.2.1. Fitting The Poly Bushes

Poly bushes supplied by us are designed for the standard MX-5 fitment. Insert poly bushes into the top of the diff and push in crush tubes, use a rubber mallet if needed.

14.2.2. Removing The Nose Bushes

Ensure the front spacers from the differential are completely removed prior to fitting the differential. If you do not remove them, the holes for the poly bushes will not line up. If your bolt holes are approximately half a hole out, this is because you have not removed the standard Mazda bushes at the nose of the differential. Figure 47 shows the standard Mazda bushes removed. These are then replaced with two “Mazda Differential Crush tubes” which fit top to bottom through the two holes pictures in Figure 47

14.3. Installing The Differential

Now all the fittings are in place around the differential area, the differential can be fitted. We recommend replacing the rubber inserts for poly bush and aluminium bushes to prevent the differential from moving (as above).

The diff can be easily lowered into the rear of the car and bolted either side through the diff ears with the bolts listed in the table above and then bolted to the chassis plate with 3 further bolts.

The differential is then bolted into place directly on top of the chassis rails as shown below and capped off with a large plate washer to spread the load across the poly bush.

To further brace the differential, there is now an additional diff mounting plate on the N/S of the chassis. This mounts onto the side of the diff using a mounting plate.

If you are using dashboard clocks which require a hall effect sender such as the ETB DigiDash our analogue clocks, there is a mounting position in this bracket for the sender.

15. Fitting The Fuel Tank

Drill 4 x 6mm holes in the centre of the 4 fuel tank mounting plates.

Locate the fuel tank and put 2 x strips of foam (approx. 200mm) on the chassis where the tank sits, this is to protect the tank and chassis.

Locate them fuel tank straps and fit foam strip to the underside (approx. 160mm) Fit the tank into the car ensuring the fuel tank is in the middle of the chassis

Fit M6 Nyloc nuts and washer to the supplied 4 x M6 threaded bars and feed through tank straps.

Fit tank straps and bars over tanks and tighten with M6 washers and Nyloc nuts from underneath. Longer bars used towards the front of the vehicle, shorter ones to the rear.

 

If you have an external fuel pump, you can now secure your appropriate fuel pump and filter into a location in line with the output tap of the tank and the line previously installed in the chassis, this is via a 12mm pipe to filter and fuel pump inlet, the output side of the pump will be 8mm to secure to you installed fuel lines.

If you have the in-tank MX-5 based fuel tank, you can fit the pump and connect the rubber fuel lines to the flow and return of the pump into the fuel filter and return pipe from front to back respectively.

Note: Fit convoluted sheathing to all rubber fuel hoses and secure to chassis with P-clips and photograph for the IVA.

15.1. Fitting The Fuel Pump

If you are using the standard Mazda fuel pump, you will just need to modify the depth of the fuel pump and the angle in which the fuel pump pickup is from vertical. This is secured by 8x M6x8 screws into the top of our universal fuel tank which should be purchased with your kit. You will need to open the holes in the top of the fuel pump with a drill to 6mm (these are 5mm on the standard pump).

Note: Be careful not to over tighten the in-tank pump screws as this is only aluminium and the threads will strip.

MK Sports Cars supply a bracket with your kit which you can drill and rivet to the fuel pump arm to make this work in our fuel tanks instead of cutting and welding the fuel pump.

It is important to note that this effectively reverses the direction of the bend in the bracket, and you will need to bend the pipes gently to get them to fit the new bracket. The direction should become apparent when you line up the bottom hole in the bracket from your kit, with the one already there on the original bracket.

You may find the pipe with the fuel pump attached is now very slightly too long to fit into the new bracket placement. If you are unable to coerce the standard setup to fit, then a careful trim of the pipe and/or the rubber hose attached should rectify this.

In addition, the sender for the fuel gauge sits on a bracket which will also contact the front wall of the tank if you do not modify it. The easiest way to do this is to unbolt the sender, and then the tab on which is located can be bent carefully with a large adjustable wrench - if you make sure the final configuration matches the above picture with the dimensions shown, then the pump should insert cleanly down into hole in the bottom of the tank, and the float will move cleanly and not contact the wall. The fuel pipes on the top of the whole assembly will then point towards the front of the car.

Additional Information for Other Dashboards: If you are using a different fuel gauge than the Mazda MX-5 standard gauges, the fuel sender range is from 0 – 110 ohms. (Full – Empty). Please ensure your gauge supports this resistance range for it to function correctly.

If you wish to use the DigiDash and the Mazda fuel pump / sender, you will need to do the following: Set to 'VDO Dip Pipe Sensor' using DigiTools software - (Configure / Sensor tab) and wire a 150 Ohm resistor in parallel with fuel sender (i.e., one side of resistor to sensor output terminal and the other side to ground).

16. Rear Suspension

16.1. Preparing The Rear Wishbones

The rear suspension consists of the following components,

• 2 x Shock absorbers
• 2 x Top rear wishbones
• 2 x Bottom rear wishbones
• 2 x Uprights

16.1.1. Fitting Instructions

The wishbones are mounted through poly bushes, there are 8 halves required on each of the bottom wishbones, and 4 halves on each of the top wishbones.

Each poly bush should be cleaned and greased before installation of the crush tubes for protection and future maintenance. You may need to deburr the wishbones inside using a file before fitting the poly bushes, this will make fitting easier. Fit poly ushes into the wishbones and slide in the crush tubes.

In the kit, there are 4 crush tubes with 14mm holes drilled in them. These need to be fitted to the bottom wishbone where the long fixing bolt at the bottom of the upright is fitted.

On the top wishbones, screw in 2 x M10 std Rose joints, remembering to screw on the locking nuts to the Rose joint first, we recommend cleaning and tapping the hole as there maybe powder coat inside.

NOTE: YOU MAY NEED TO RUN AN M10 X 1.5 TAP DOWN THE THREADS IN THE TOP REAR WISHBONES FOR THE MALE ROSE JOINTS TO CLEAR ANY POWDER COAT WHICH MAY BE OBSTRUCTING THE THREADS.

Once fitted, slide the M10x110 bolt right through the two rose joints and check the distance between the wishbone and the edge of the bolt. Ensure the bolt is parallel to the wishbone and the distance between bolt and wishbone is approx. 40mm)

Starting with the Drivers side

Fit the lower wishbone to the chassis using the bolts as detailed in the table above.

Note the direction of the lower bolt fitment (inside out) with the nut on the outside.

Do not tighten the bolts at this stage of the build, this is done later.

Now fit the shock absorber using the bolts from the table above.

Note the direction of the bolts (bolts facing forward) and the direction of the shock absorber with the damper adjuster (if applicable) facing inward at the bottom

Now fit the top wishbone making sure this is round the correct way and it’s the correct side.

Note the direction of the top bolts (inside out) with the nuts on the outside. These will clear the diff mounts with a little persuasion.

Again, do not tighten these bolts as they will be tightened up at a later stage of the build process.

Now fit the Mazda donor part - rear driver’s side upright and drive shaft.

Note: The bolt used for the bottom rear upright will need some grease to lubricate

Note: If you are building an Indy RX-5 RR or MC you will need to press the top hat spacers into the bottom of the rear upright (shown in the picture below).

These are M14 to M12 reducers to allow for an M12x150 bolt to secure the bottom upright to the wishbone instead of the M14 used on the poly bush cars

The long 14mm fixing bolt at the bottom of the upright is fitted front to back so the nut is towards the rear of the car.

Ensure the correct crush tubes have been fitted here.

Now the driveshaft will need tapping into place. Please refer to your donor vehicle Haynes manual for the procedure of fitting the driveshaft as this can differ from model to model.

Once the driveshaft is fitted to the differential, the top upright bolt and shim washers will need securing.

This is done by using a pry bar to allow fitment of 3x M10 washers towards the rear of the car to shim out the Mazda upright.

Again, make sure the bolt securing the top upright is placed front to back with the nut being towards the rear of the car.

Keep all the bolts loose for now and tighten up at a later date when the car has all its weights for geometry set up, as per the torque guideline procedure.

Now repeat these steps for the passenger side of the vehicle.

17. Fitting The Rear Braking System

17.1. Rear Brake Calipers

Fit the rear brake calipers to the uprights – note, when on the Mazda, the brake calipers are at towards the front of the disk, in our installation, the brake calipers are towards the rear of the car.

Each caliper is secured to the upright using two bolts as per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Note: The brake caliper is positioned towards the rear of the vehicle and not the front as per the Mazda manual.

17.2. Fit Handbrake Cable And Lever

The handbrake cable and handbrake lever are used from the donor car and is designed to fit as removed from the Donor Mazda MX5 car with no modification.

Separate the handbrake lever from the handbrake cables.

Before bolting the handbrake to the centre tunnel, remove the handbrake warning lamp switch and rotate the terminal through 90 degrees.

Bolt the handbrake lever into the centre tunnel on the mounting brackets provided.

REMOVE THE STANDARD MAZDA HANDBRAKE CABLE FIXINGS WITH A SCREWDRIVER TAKING CARE NOT TO SLIP AND PUT IT THROUGH YOUR FINGERS!

Now take the handbrake cable and thread this from the rear of the car through the tubes in the chassis and into the handbrake adjuster beneath the handbrake lever on the centre console.

Note: The cables cross over as they exit the chassis to take up the slack in the cable.

Loop the handbrake cable through the chassis bars and fix to the caliper using the route shown below.

Fix the handbrake to the chassis with 3 cable ties on each cable – these are marked on the diagram below.

To prevent the cables from twisting at the top of the cable where it meets the chassis, take a piece of 8mm rubber pipe approx. 50mm in length and thread a cable tie through it and secure to both the cables.

Fix the handbrake cable to the calipers at both ends according to the manufacturer’s instructions and using the double nuts on the cable secure to the handbrake cable bracket. These can be adjusted later when we bleed the brakes.

17.2.1. Braided Brake Hose Fixing – Rear

With all the uprights in place and with the brake calipers installed the braided brake hoses can be connected.

Connect the banjo end of the braided hose to the caliper ensure the copper washers are in place either side of the banjo to seal the joint.

Note: the rear brake lines have a 15° bend at the banjo end of the caliper.

Screw the hose into the brake caliper. DO NOT overtighten as this may damage the washers.

Ensure the braided hose is not twisted or kinked and once happy you can now tighten the hose lock nut where it’s fitted to the chassis bracket. Now tighten the female end of the copper brake lines that meet with the braided hose.

Note the twist in the braided hose to prevent any slack abrasion when on full droop alternatively you can cable tie this to the lower wishbone leaving enough slack for the suspension travel (fix cable ties after bleeding the brakes).

17.3. Fitting The Fuel Tank Breather Valve

Once the fuel tank is fitted, the one-way fuel tank breather valve can be fitted. This is positioned near the top shoulder roll bar mounting pointed and is connected to the tank using fuel pipe.

Note: You must use pipe marked “fuel pipe” for IVA test

Secure the pipe to the tank and one way breather using jubilee clips. You can see in the picture below the breather is positioned higher with the arrow pointing towards the tank which allow the gases to enter the tank without any loss of liquid.

18. Fitting The Side Panels

 Note: Please ensure you stick masking tape over the areas being cut so the gelcoat doesn’t chip and please remember to wear safety equipment and trim in a well-ventilated area.

Carefully clamp the side panel in place ensuring that the curved part of the panel is pushed hard up against the curved part of the chassis by the rear wheel arch.

You will also need to trim out a small section of the top of the panel where the steering support bar and scuttle securing studs are welded to the chassis to enable the side panel to fit flush.

Using masking tape, mark these areas and trim the panel as required.

At the rear of the panel a cut out is required for the panel to fit around the diagonal chassis rail, this can be marked by offering the panel up and projecting the cut lines.

A further trim is required where the side panel meets with the roll over hoop base plate.

Once the panels are trimmed, they can now be fixed onto the chassis. We recommend using silicone sealant on the faces that meet with the chassis for water protection and to stop panel vibration.

Run a thin bead of silicone sealant (tiger seal) around the outer edge of the chassis.

Make sure not to put too much sealant on the chassis as this will overspill when the panel is compressed against it.

Once all the silicone adhesive has been applied, you are then ready to present the side panel and ensure the panel sticks to the chassis.

Note: Use G-clamps to maintain compression on the panel and the chassis, but make sure you protect the side panel with cardboard or other non-abrasive material.

At the rear of the panel, you can drill the 5 holes for riveting the panel to the chassis behind the wheel arch. These 5mm holes and are positioned 100 mm apart measuring from the top as shown. Fit the 5 large head rivets.

At the front of the car the panel is fixed using 2 large head rivets into the square chassis rail as shown below.

Clean off any excess silicone with a clean cloth and spirit and leave for 24 hours for the adhesive to set.

18.1. Cutting The Exhaust Exit

18.1.1. Mazda Engine

On the passenger side, the exhaust hole will need to be trimmed. This is for both the NA and turbo models (the exhaust exits in the same place). Figure 85 shows where to cut the hole.

Mask off the area to be cut with masking tape and mark out the hole using the dimensions above. Using a hole saw cut through the panel in the four corners and trim between.

U trim around the hole.

18.1.2. S2000 Engine

If you are fitting an S2000 engine, please refer to the S2000 supplement manual for required modifications dimensions.

18.1.3. K20 Engine

If you are fitting an K20 engine, please refer to the K20 supplement manual for required modifications dimensions.

19. Fitting The Rear Panel

The rear panel will need to be trimmed around the rear diagonal chassis rail in the same way that the side panels where trimmed. Once trimmed, the rear panel can be clamped into place and levelled up with the side panel. Ensure that the panels are level with each other at the top and the wheel arch radius curve is flush and consistent in its radius.

With the side and rear panels clamped in place drill two 6mm holes (both sides) through the panels and fit together using 4 x M6 x 16mm bolts, 20mm washers and Nyloc nuts.

Note: Standard nuts are used in the picture above for ease of fitment, these are changed later when doing final panel fitment.

Once panels are secure and you are happy with positioning, from the inside, drill through the holes in the chassis plate, and through the side panels.

20. Fitting The Roll Bar/Cage

Now the rear panel and the side panels have been fitted, you are now able to fit the roll bar or roll cage.

Ensure the correct length bolts are used.

Below is a picture of the UK passenger side looking from the rear.

Note: the forward-most bolts are 50mm long, the rest of the bolts are 20mm long.

21. Fitting The Front Suspension

Use the table below to check for correct bolts:

Size mm	Bolt	Washers	Nuts	Rose Joint	Location
M12x60	12	24	12		Front and rear suspension
M12x70	16	32	16		Wishbone bolts front and rear
M12x195	2	4	2		Bottom rear uprights
M12x160	2	4	2		Bottom front uprights
M12x50	2	4	2		Bottom front ball joint
M10x110	2	4	2		Top rear uprights
M8x30	6	12	6		4 for steering rack, 2 for column
M6x20	2	2	0		Rocker Arm Washers are 30mm
M8x30	4	8	4		Roll bar
M8x50					Roll bar
M8x20					roll bar rear stays
M8x60	3	3	3		Top mount pedal set
M8x50	3	6	3		Bottom mount pedal set
M12x110	2	4	2		Rear diff bolts through rubber mount
M12x100	1	2	1		Rear Diff mount front bolt
M12x50	1	2	1		Rear Diff mount rear bolt
8mm shims	8				Shim for front suspension rod ends
Rivets 4.8mm 16mm head	100				Large head rivets for floor
M14 half nut		2			Top A arm drop joint
M12x1.25 Thread Rose Joint			4	4	Front push rod suspension
M10 std Rose joint			4	4	Rear Top A arms
M10x50	2	2			Engine bay Chassis brace bar

 

21.1. Fitting The Rockers

Remove any excess powder coat at the rear of the rocker.
Liberally grease the rocker boss on both sides 

Using the correct die, ease on the rear rocker bearing making sure the fitment is totally at the rear of the rocker boss. 

Insert the forward most rocker bearing and press on with the correct size die. 

Using a centre punch, score the shaft of the rocker boss to prevent the inner most section of the rocker bearing from moving up and down the shaft. 

Press the outer sections of the front and rear bearing using a protected vice into the rocker and grease liberally.

Fit the rocker to the chassis making sure the longer edge of the rocker faces towards the middle of the vehicle.

Fix with a large top hat washer and tighten accordingly. 

Important use Loctite on the bolt 

Repeat for the other rocker on the other side of the vehicle. 

21.2. Assemble The Pushrods

Assemble the pushrods for the front suspension using an M12x1.25 thread rose joints and a locking nut. Start by making the push rods 400mm in length. These will need to be adjusted at a later date once the vehicle is corner weighted and setup correctly, however 400mm will be fine to proceed with the build. 

Note : The threads on the push rods are RH at one end, and LH at the other end.

21.3. Fitting The Wishbones

As per the rear set up, the front suspension is a double wishbone arrangement that uses the cast uprights from the donor Mazda MX5 car and the pre-assembled pushrod front suspension

Note: The wishbones are handed

21.4. Assemble The Driver’s (UK) Side Of The Vehicle. 

Note: The front suspension needs to be assembled in this order, if not, the suspension bolts will not fit correctly. 

Fit the bottom bolt of the shock absorber with the 60mm shanked bolt running back to front. These will be marked in your kit as the “Front Shocks”

Note the adjuster of the shock absorber is towards the bottom of the shock,

Fit the rocker side of the pushrod. The bolt is positioned back to front and there are 2x 8mm spacers which separate the rose joint from the rocker mounting bracket. 

Fit the shock absorber to the top of the rocker – again notice the bolt runs back to front.
(Note: in this picture, the shock is upside down) 

Fit the poly bushes and crush tubes to the lower front wishbone, grease the crush tubes with water repellent silicone grease prior fitment.

Fit the lower front wishbone to the chassis – the bolts are fitted front to back on the lower wishbones. Again, grease with silicone grease. 

Fit the push rod suspension to the lower wishbone using 8mm spacers between the bracket and the rose joint fitting the bolt from front to back.

Fit the refurbished cast upright from the MX-5 to the wishbone using an M12x150mm bolt (front to back) and a M10x40mm bolt through the wishbone.

Ensure the correct upright is fitted to the correct side of the car. The steering arm should be to the front and the brake caliper to the rear. 

Fit the poly bushes and crush tubes to the top wishbone and grease accordingly.

Fit the locking nut to the tie rod end

Fit the tie rod end to the wishbone turning in 20 turns for starters.

You may need to use a M14x1.5 tap to remove any excess powder coat.

Bolt the top wishbone to the car with the forward-facing bolt front to back and the rearward facing bolt of the wishbone back to front.

Bolt the tie rod end to the cast upright – your front suspension should look like this: 

Loosely fit the washers and nuts. DO NOT tighten the nuts at this stage. 

21.5. Assemble The Passengers (UK) Side Of The Vehicle.

 Repeat the steps above for the passenger side of the vehicle. 

22. Fit The Front Brakes

The cleaned up the front disks and brakes calipers, from the donor car, will need to be fitted.

Bolt the caliper to the upright and assemble the disks and pads as per the manufacturer’s instruction.

Drill a 10mm hole in the side panel 195mm down and 50mm across from the rearward facing suspension top wishbone chassis bracket.

Fit the brake flexi-hose through this hole. Remember to put a washer on the outer side. 

Fit the flexi to the copper hose inside the panel and tighten finger tight.

Note: The copper brake pipe inside may need bending to marry up with the flexi hose. 

Leave the other end of the brake pipe (banjo end) disconnected at this stage.

22.1. Fitting Wilwood Front Brake Calipers.

Required Components for a complete front end:

• 2x Wilwood braided brake hoses (1/8 NPT to M10x1)
• 2x 45° 1/8” NPT to 1/8” NPT hose connectors
• 2x Male to Male 1/8” NPT to M10x1 fittings (included with the braided brake hose kit)
• 2x Wilwood Calipers
• 2x Wilwood Brake Caliper Adapter
• 8x M10x45 Cap Head Bolts
• x M10 Washers
• 4x M10 Nyloc Nuts
• Full Set of Wilwood Mintex 1144 brake pads

22.1.1. Assembly Instructions

Bolt the male end of the braided hose through the side panel (or brake fitting tab) and lock off on the other side with the locking nut. This is an M10x1 thread fitting and will connect directly to the female end on the copper brake line.

Fit the 45° degree to the caliper (Note – Use some PTFE tape around the thread). 

Fit the male to mail 1/8npt fitting into the 45° fitting using some PTFE tape around the male thread. 

Note: Make sure the male-to-male fitting is fitted with the pointed end towards the braided hose. 

This will then allow the braided hose to connect to the male-to-male connector. 

The caliper can then be bolted to the adapter bracket and using 2x M10x40 cap headed bolts (and a washer). There is a thread in the caliper.

Then bolt the adapter to the upright using 2x M10x40 cap head bolts with a washer on the head side of the bolt. 

23. Fitting The Front Wing Stays 

The Indy RX-5 can be fitted with many different size wheels and tyres. This section documents the fitting of Toyo R888R 195/55 R 15 tyres on Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 15” wheels with an ET35 offset. Also, this is for the 15” CSR front wheel arches. Some other arches may also alter how the wing stays are bent.

The front cycle wing stays will need to be pre-bent to accommodate your wheels.
Identify the correct side wing stay. They can only be fitted in one direction. The diagram below shows the UK nearside wing stay. 

The wing stay is mounted with the top brake caliper bolt and the bottom ball joint bolt.

The front section should be bent at 45 degrees from where the rounded tube meets the flat bar.

Then another 45-degree bend on the flat bar 70mm from the previous bend. This will then put the flat bar part of the wing stay at 90 degrees from the rounded vertical section.

The rear section should be bent at 45 degrees from where the rounded tube meets the flat bar.

Then another 45-degree bend on the flat bar at 50mm from the previous bend.

The image below shows how the bend should look once it is complete

Once the wing stays are bent correctly, line up the front wheel arches to make sure they clear the tyres. 

Note: IVA requires the wheel arches to completely cover the tyre, so ensure
the outside edge of the tyre is inside the outside edge of the wheel arch. 

Perform the same bending for the other side wing stay.

The wing stays can now be removed for powder coating or painting with black enamel paint. We recommend POR15 semi-gloss black for painting these parts.

Once painted and bolted back on the car, the brake line banjo can now be fitted. Ensure the brake line does not touch the wing stay when connecting to the caliper. 

Ensure the banjo fitting is 90 degrees from the caliper so it will clear the wheel 

24. Fitting The Steering Rack

The geometry of the Mazda RX5 front uprights is such that a modification to the steering rack is necessary. This should be carried out prior to fitting to the vehicle.

Select the parts required to fit the steering rack to the car. These are 1x steering rack, 1x RH Aluminium mounting, 1x LH Aluminium mounting, 4x M8x30mm bolts, 2x shim spacers.

Thread the steering rack through the side panel holes left and then right.

Position the steering rack across the chassis onto its mounting point and align the fixing holes.

Viewed from the front of the car, fit the LH (Wider) aluminium mounting bracket to the chassis with the M8 bolts fed from the top and secure with a washer and Nyloc nut.

The RH mounting bracket requires a 7mm spacer (provided) to shim up the steering rack, so it is level. Newer chassis already have this spacer built into the steering rack mounts, so you do not need the nylon spacers seen below.

Fit the RH (Thinner) aluminium bracket to the chassis with the M8 bolts fed from the top and secure with a washer and Nyloc nut. 

DO NOT TORQUE TIGHTEN AT THIS STAGE. 

Fit the thread adaptors to both steering arms.

Screw the locking nuts and thread adaptors onto the steering arms until the thread bottoms

Loosely tighten the locknut onto the adaptor

Fit the track rod ends and locknuts.

The track rod end is the same as that used on the Mazda MX5, we recommended that a new part is fitted unless your donor parts are perfect condition.

Screw the locknut and track rod end onto the adaptor leaving about 10mm of thread still visible at this stage.

Secure the track rod ends to the steering arms using the nut supplied with the track rod end.

Remember to tighten all bolts up after full geo set up and mark with paint pen. 

Note: Do not forget to cover both the locking nuts of the track rod end and the steering extension with rubber covers for IVA compliance 

25. Fitting The Upper & Lower Steering Column 

The upper and lower steering column is taken from the donor vehicle and will require modification before fitting to your vehicle.

The upper steering column by cutting off the lower mounting brackets and remove welds.

The steering column will now need to be painted to prevent any surface rust.

The upper bracket is left un-modified

Attach the lower column to the splined shaft on the steering rack.

Feed the upper column through the hole in bulkhead panel and connect it to the lower column, securing with an M8 bolt and Nyloc nut (ensure that the bolt is long enough to pass through the nut, so the Nyloc is being utilised).

The upper column mounts on the welded chassis bracket on the underside of the chassis.

Secure with dome headed M8x20mm bolts, large washers and Nyloc nuts

The lower end of the upper column is secured using a ‘U’ clamp which fastens to a plate on the chassis. 

Please remember to tighten up and paint mark fixings

To align the steering wheel correctly with the wheels, you may need to remove the splines at the steering rack end and rotate accordingly to get the steering wheel a top dead centre 

26. Fitting The Rear Wheel Arches

Identify the correct side of the rear wheel arches.  Although they look the same, if you look at the ends of the arches, you will notice one of them is slightly more angled – this end of the wheel arch is positioned towards the front on the vehicle.

Following the dimensions shown with ‘A’ being towards the front of the car, on the inside of the arch mark the holes and drill through using a 6mm drill and repeat for the other side. 

Using clamps and tape, align the wheel arch with the side panel arch projection and mark/drill through bodywork and fix arch using M6 bolts and 30mm washers both sides.

For this process, we recommend using a 90° drill extension. 

27. Prepare the Engine and Gearbox

The installation of the engine and gearbox is designed to be fitted as a single unit. While your engine is out, it is good practice to install a new clutch and check the general condition of the engine including all auxiliary components as detailed in the donor list.

27.1 Prepare The Clutch Fork

Note: In some installations, the clutch fork has been found to touch on the firewall when the clutch is over fully depressed. This is resolved by doing the following: a) Trim a slight corner from the clutch fork bracing. b) Fit a clutch stop (which is long a threaded M10 bolt through the firewall – not supplied)

It is advisable to trim the clutch fork prior to installation into the vehicle to allow for extra clearance around the chassis rail. Use the following pictures of the clutch fork as a guide on how much material to remove from the clutch fork.

27.2. Fit the Gearbox Mountings

The gearbox is fitted to the car with a rubber mount via a plate which bolts on beneath the gearbox. The gearbox mounting bracket in your kit looks like this:

This is bolted to the underside of the gearbox with the jaws facing the rear of the car and connected to the rubber mount which is bolted to the plate at the bottom of the centre tunnel.

It’s designed so you can slide the engine and gearbox into the centre tunnel straight onto the rubber gearbox mount.

27.3. Fit The MX-5 Engine Gearbox & Prop Shaft

Fit the prop shaft the differential before fitting the engine. Use donor car prop shaft bolts or replace with new. Use medium strength threadlock to all and torque to manufacturers specification.

As previously described in above, the prop shaft from your donor car must be modified before fitting to make it suitable for use on your MK.

To install the engine and gearbox fit the MK engine mounts to the engine block using the donor car bolts. You will note that the near side mount points towards the front of the car.

These mounts are designed to fit onto the round rubber mounts supplied fitted to the chassis.

We recommend fitting these engine mounts to the block before lifting the engine into the car.

Before fitting the engine, the alternator belt will need to be replaced with the shorter alternator belt from MK Sportscars, so this clears the steering column.

We also recommend removing the gear lever pre installation this assists in installation, if there is oil still in the gearbox, this will need to be removed otherwise it will flow out the gearbox output shaft end when the engine is tilted pre installation.

Secure an appropriate lifting sling to the lifting eyelets fitted to the engine These are located on the sides of the engine see Figure 7.

Using a suitable engine hoist, raise the engine and gearbox such that the gearbox is tilted down and to a height that it will clear the chassis.

Protect the chassis where necessary and ensure you are vigilant not damage any brake and fuel pipes.

Lower the engine, whilst feeding the gearbox into the transmission tunnel.

Once in the tunnel the unit can slowly be brought back to horizontal as it is further lowered.

Align the Engine mounts on both sides.

The studs on the mounting will locate in a hole in the chassis plate.

The gearbox will locate to the rubber mounting on the chassis, secure down loosely with all fixing points.

Slide the input end of the prop shaft into the gearbox so the splines align with the output shaft from the gearbox. The outer part of the prop shaft locates in an oil seal within the gearbox. Please ensure this is clean and fit for purpose, replace as required, a light smear of clean oil will assist with installation.

Note: The prop shaft does not have to fit all the way inside the gearbox, it is on splines by design to allow lateral movement of the engine.

27.3.1. Blanking Off The EGR Valve

The EGR Valve needs to be removed from the engine and blanked off, this is located on the O/S of the engine above the inlet manifold. Use the supplied billet aluminium blanking plates.

27.3.2. Blanking Air intake Pipes #1

The first of the air intake pipes to be blanked off is located at the top of the inlet plenum. This will need to be blanked off with a rubber cap which you can make yourself. Symptoms if this is not blanked off correctly are the engine will hover at idle.

27.3.3. Blanking Air intake Pipes #2

The second of the air intake pipe which need to be blanked off is located below the inlet plenum. This pipe needs an M6 bolt placed into the pipe and clipped down with a jubilee clip. This can then be fitted into its support clip parallel to the pipe above (which can be seen below)

27.3.4. Fitting the Turbo Oil Feed Return

If you are looking to upgrade your vehicle at a later date, then it’s probably a good idea to fit the oil drain return line into the sump. This is fitted to the sump using a ½” BSPT fitting supplied by us and fitted into the sump in the following location.

If you elect to have your sump shortened by us, we can fit this at shortening time by welding in a boss rather than having to tap this.

27.4. Fitting the S2000 Engine

Before fitting the engine and gearbox of the S2000, there is a small lug on the side of the gearbox which will need to be trimmed down slightly so it missed the lower chassis rail. See below. Also refer to the S2000 Supplement manual.

27.5. Fitting the K20A2 Engine

Please refer to the K20A2 Supplement manual for details on fitting the K20A2 engine.

27.6. Connect Clutch Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder

In the clutch fitting kit, there are 4 copper washers (one either side of both banjo connections). Fit flexible braided clutch hose using banjo bolts and copper washers. Tighten all connections (do not overtighten crushing the copper washers)  

Fit braided line from the master cylinder to the bracket on the bell housing. Tighten all joints.

Add brake/clutch fluid and bleed the system until it is free from air. (Test for leaks)

4.7. Connect Rubber Fuel Lines to Engine

The rubber fuel lines from the bulkhead flow and return feed will need connecting to the engine.

Note: The return comes out of the bottom of the fuel regulator on the inlet manifold.

In the picture above, the red arrow is pointing towards the FLOW while the yellow arrow is pointing towards the RETURN.

Please revert to the Mazda Haynes manual for the flow and return pipe and connect the to the specific fuel lines from the front to the rear of the car.

Top Tip: It’s a good idea to connect the rubber fuel lines prior to installation of the inlet plenum as there is very little room with the plenum bolted on the engine.

28. Cooling System

28.1. Fitting the Radiator

Remove radiator and fitting kit from packaging.

From the fitting kit set aside the sticky foam pads.

Throw away remaining fitting kit.

Stick foam pads to the fan mounts and where the fan will come into contact with the radiator.

Position the fan centrally on the radiator.

Using 4 x 4.8mm cable ties thread over M6 x 20mm washers and feed through rad mounts and carefully through fins in radiator.

On the reverse side of the radiator thread another M6 x 20mm washers over protruding cable ties and using the end of another cable tie lightly lock into place.

Snip off cable ties tails (repeat 4 times).

Should you wish to use the supplied fitting kit (not recommended) see below:

The 4 universal mounting cords which come supplied with your fan are pushed through the fins of the radiator, secured through the mounting tabs of the fan, and then clipped into place.

The fan is fitted behind the radiator so that the slotted mounting lugs are uppermost and centralized left to right.

The mounting brackets to the radiator are pre welded to the chassis for fitment of our radiator. Use two M6x12mm long screws (note these will need to be cut to this length from longer items) along with washers.

Note: when using our budget radiator, you may need to tap out the threads in the plastic to make it easier to screw the mounting bolts into the plastic.

Fit a blanking plug or a fan switch boss in the radiator to finish the radiator. If you are using the standard Mazda loom, fitment of the blank plug will be sufficient.

Fit the MK radiator brackets to the chassis using 6x M6x16mm bolts, washers and Nylocs.

Align the mounting bosses on the radiator with the brackets at the front of the chassis and secure with M6x12mm long screws and washers.

28.2. Connect The Pipework

The pipework required for the RX-5 installation comes straight from off the Mazda MX-5 donor vehicle with a little trimming here and there.

28.3. Bottom Front Hose Fixing

The bottom engine hose is made from the original MX-5 top hose. Cut the top hose at 110mm (seen in the picture below)

Connect the angled section of the bottom hose from the outlet on the left had side of the engine (as looking from the driver’s seat – seen below)

Connect the other section that you cut off the MX-5 top hose to the lower outlet of the radiator.

Connect a 300 mm length of 28mm aluminium pipe between the two hoses. This pipe has a 19mm T outlet approx. 45mm from the end of the pipe (fitted forward facing) like this.

 

Rubber pipe and hoses are secured with 4x appropriate size jubilee clips.

Use P clips to secure the water pipe to the chassis

And to the engine block

The route of the coolant tank pipe should be positioned as below.

28.4. Top Front Hose Fixing

The top engine hose is made from the original MX-5 bottom hose.

Cut the top hose at 240mm

 

Note: Before fitting the bottom hose, ensure the engine thermostat housing has been rotated through 180°

Unbolt the thermostat housing; rotate through 180° so that the outlet is pointing towards the top outlet of the radiator and refit.

Fit the left-hand section of the cut hose in the diagram above between the engine thermostat housing and the top radiator outlet with the freshly cut end towards the radiator.

Fix with 2x appropriate size jubilee clips at either end.

28.5. Rear Top Hoses

The standard steel heater inlet pipe needs to be trimmed to suit the bend in the MX-5 heater hose. Cut this down by approximately 50mm.

Use a piece of 16mm straight hosen approx. 400mm long looping the flow and the return – this is for the heater hose if you decide to upgrade to the heater at a later date.

29. Fitting the Horn

You can use the horns from the donor car, and these can be fitted to the front of the chassis behind the radiator and front suspension, secure with M6 bolt and rivnut in the chassis. The picture below shows the horn mounted inside the triangulation of the front end of the chassis.

 

30. Fitting The ECU Mounting Panel

Note : The ECU is normally bolted to a panel which is mounted beneath the scuttle and behind the dashboard.

4 x rivet holes for the mounting points are predrilled at the base of the panel. This should then allow 4 rivets at the bottom of the panel, and a further 4 at the top of the panel that need to be drilled in situ once panel has been positioned.

To prevent any future rattles, before securing the panel with rivets, place some adhesive / foam between the panel to stop metal on metal contact.

You will need the top lip of the aluminium panel to be able to mount the fuse boxes from the Mazda if you are using the standard wiring loom.

Finish the edges of the aluminium with rubber trim to prevent any cables from chafing on the bare aluminium. We use the hole which is central to the tunnel as an earth post.

Once panel is in position, drill through the panel and the chassis using a 6mm drill bit. Fit 60mm bolt with washers and Nyloc as shown.

If you're using our after market ECU, there are pre-drilled holes in the panel for you to mount the ECU.

Note: use an M6 x 30 dome headed bolt to secure the ECU to the panel, making sure to feed the bolt from the cabin side towards the front of the car.  This will fail the IVA radius test otherwise.

31. Fitting The Dashboard 

The following section explains how to fit the standard RX-5 dashboard with Mazda Clocks/Binnacle.

31.1. Preparing The Dashboard Panel

Trim the GRP / Fibreglass dashboard with a hacksaw blade and Dremel and sandpaper so that it fits around the steering column shroud. It’s probably a good idea to mock this up with some cardboard before attempting to trim the fiberglass. Line this up to the scuttle panel and make sure you’re happy with the fitment around the column before proceeding.

Note: You can use some rubber 2mm edge trim around the newly cut hole in the dashboard to soften the sharp edges and make the finish slightly neater

31.2. Fitting The Mazda Clocks Into The Dashboard

As standard, the RX-5 is fitted with the Mazda clocks. The Mazda clocks are bonded into place using the same silicone adhesive used to fit your floor pan and front wheel arches. Ensure you have the clocks located in the correct position and then blob a big lump of adhesive on the outside edge of the clocks.

Note: You might need to key up the surfaces of the dashboard to ensure the adhesive sticks and doesn’t come off.

Wait for this to dry so the clocks are in the correct position before trying to stick the rest of the binnacle into the dashboard. Don’t try and do too much in one go, ensure the clocks can’t move before securing them completely.

31.3. Fitting Digital Dashboard Ideas

While outside the scope of this manual, it is possible to connect the Digital dashboard into the Mazda loom and then fit the dashboard above the plastic Mazda steering cowling.

You cannot flush fit the digital dashboard; however, it will just about fit above cowling so you can see the dials from the driver’s seat and pass the IVA

31.4. Fitting Analogue Clocks

Whilst outside the scope of this manual, it is possible to connect the Mazda wiring loom to the MK branded analogue clocks. Below is an example of a typical dashboard layout.

31.5. Fitting the Dashboard to the Scuttle

There are several ways to fit the dashboard to the scuttle, it’s possible to use “big head” nuts which are bonded onto the rear of the dashboard for that smooth look, however the most common way is to drill through the dashboard panel and scuttle and secure with M5 (black head) dome headed Allen key bolts.

Secure the dashboard in place with whatever fixing you desire (either bolts or big heads) drilling through the scuttle panel.

As seen below, use some “stone guard edge trim” between the dashboard and the scuttle panel to prevent any panel squeak. This can be easily manipulated around the outside of the dashboard and can be held in place by the dashboard panel.

32. Coolant System Continued

Now the scuttle panel is installed, you are able to continue with plumbing the remainder of the coolant system.

32.1. Fit the Expansion Tank 

The expansion tank is mounted on the bulkhead panel using a custom bracket (available from MK) which allows the expansion tank to bolt against the bulkhead panel. This is fitted approx. 300 mm from the edge of the bulkhead panel (approximately midway between the edge and the embossed MK logo on the bulkhead panel).

To ensure stability of the expansion tank, the reverse side of the bracket has its load spread with a large aluminium spreader plate. M6x20 nut and bolt the coolant tank to the bulkhead panel.

32.2. Coolant Tank Return Bleed Pipe

From the top of the radiator to the expansion tank is the coolant return bleed pipe. This is constructed from 8mm rubber or silicone hose from the MX-5 donor car and a length of aluminium pipe.

Note: Instead of using a length of aluminium pipe, you can use some of the 8mm copper pipe left over from fitting the fuel lines.

Prepare the rubber hose from the radiator using the MX-5 pipe kit.

Connect this pipe to the radiator with the 90° section onto the radiator.

Prepare the aluminium pipe which travels over the rocker cover to the expansion bottle and fit with rubber P-clips to the top of the rocker cover.

Finally, connect the aluminium pipe to the expansion tank with a length of 8mm pipe approx. 170mm of straight pipe.

32.3. Plug The Expansion Bottle Spare Outlet

Tap the top outlet of the expansion tank with an M6 thread and araldite a bolt into it to seal up the hole.

32.4. Coolant Tank Fill Pipe

The coolant tank fill pipe is connected to the bottom hose. For this step, you need the following components:

• 1x 19mm straight silicone hose 1300 mm long.
• 4x 19mm jubilee clips.

Fit one end of the rubber pipe to the 19mm outlet on the bottom hose.

Fit the other end of the rubber pipe to the coolant tank.

33.  Fit the Battery Mounting System 

The battery is fitted to the bulkhead panel using a system of spacers and the GRP battery lid.

The brace bar is fitted beneath the grp to prevent the threaded rod from being pulled through the GRP.

 Fit the spacers to the height of the battery. 

You can access the bottom nut of the threaded rod from the passenger foot well once the bulkhead panel is fitted in place. 

34. Fit the Bulkhead Panel

Fit the pre bent aluminium bulkhead panel to the chassis and determine the position of the battery and coolant reservoir.

Fit rivnuts to the vertical face of the panel and mount the coolant reservoir using 4x M6 x 20mm button head bolts and washers.

 

If using the GRP bulkhead option, fit the bulkhead panel using rivnuts and M5 screws into the top chassis rails. These are measured at 30mm from the front edge and then 200mm towards the scuttle panel.

Starting at the middle of the bulkhead panel, drill the centre hole, then measure 150mm to the next hole and then 150mm to the following hole. Work both left and right from the centre thus getting the bolts at equidistant points.

35. Fit Chassis Plate

The chassis plate needs to be riveted to the bulkhead pane at the offside of the vehicle. Your chassis plate should be with your kit, if not, this can be ordered online from the MK Sportscars web shop. 

36. Fit Air Flow Meter

Rivet the MK air filter bracket to the chassis approx. 215 mm in from the edge of the chassis rail.

 

Prepare the 90° pipe for the air flow meter. This is removed from the MX-5 donor vehicle. The rubber hose is strategically cut at the air flow meter end approx. 85mm from the concertina section of the pipe (shown in the diagram below).

Fit the air inlet pipe and Mass air flow meter to the bracket using stock jubilee clips and bolts. Fix the 65mm end to the throttle body, and the 75mm end to the air flow meter. Utilize the existing jubilee clips for both ends of the intake system. Fit the universal air filter to the air flow meter.

For non turbo applications drill a 12mm hole in the rubber of the air filter or air intake pipe and fit the air flow sender. Remove the rubber washer which is used when the sender is used on the Mazda and secure with the jubilee clip.

37. Oil Breather

Using the standard MX-5 pipe work from the top of the rocker cover, fit the oil breather to the front of the engine secured to the engine with a P-clip as shown below.

NOTE: DO NOT CONNECT THE BREATHER DIRECTLY TO THE VENT PIPE ON THE TOP OF THE ROCKER COVER. IF OIL WERE TO DRIP ONTO THE HOT MANIFOLD, THIS MAY CAUSE A FIRE.

37. Fitting Nose Cone

Prepare the nose cone by trimming as shown below then trial fit nosecone butting up to side panels.

 

With the nose cone in place and positioned correctly, drill a 6mm hole through the internal return lip both sides and through the side panel.

Remove the nosecone and drill into chassis and fit 6mm flush mount rivnuts on both sides.

Fit MK nosecone / oil cooler mounting brackets to the mounts on the front of the radiator using M6 x 16mm cap head bolts and washers.

Note: if plastic radiator is being used these brackets should not be used for mounting oil cooler or nose cone.

Mount the bottom plate to the radiator brackets using 4 x M6 x 20mm bolts washers and Nyloc nuts.

Note: bolt heads are on the outside of the brackets with Nyloc nuts to the inside.

Refit the nosecone and mark the fibreglass through predrilled holes in the bottom bracket and fit 2x M6 rivnuts to lower bracket.

Drill 6mm hole through nose cone where marked and fit using 2 x 16mm bolts and large washers under and 2 x 20mm bolts and 20mm washers inside.

38. Prepare The Bonnet and Scuttle Panel

The lower edge flange of the bonnet will need trimming to accommodate the scuttle panel and nose cone. The front edge of the bonnet requires at least 40mm to be removed from the lower front edge on both sides so this clears the nose cone, and at least 20mm to be removed from the lower rear edge on both sides so this clears the scuttle lip.

With the nosecone fitted and bolted in place lay the bonnet over and line it up with the recess in the nose cone, use masking tape to hold in place.

Prepare the scuttle panel by trimming around the chassis bar and mark and drill the holes for the mounting studs using the bonnet to position the scuttle. Ensure all shut lines are correct before drilling.

Note: A slightly larger hole can be drilled in the scuttle for final tweaking of panel gaps.

Fit scuttle using 4x 20mm washers and Nyloc nuts (normal nuts shown for ease of fitment during build process).

39. Fit The Underside Side Panel

This measurement at the bottom edge of the side panel should be 16” (width of the bottom of the nose cone). You will also need to trim a cut edge in the underside of the side panel to allow for the side panel to bend inwards.

Trim out a section of the underside of the side panel.

Note: you may also need to trim the front section off the side panel to allow the nose cone to fit correctly. The side panels are slightly oversized to allow for multiple nose cones to fit.

40. Fit the Bonnet Catches

Once you are happy with the nose cone and side panel fitment, you are then able to secure the bonnet with the IVA compliant rubber bonnet catches.

These are positioned 70mm from the front end and rear end of the bonnet.

The catch is drilled onto the top chassis rail and secured with 2x 4mm rivets while the clip is riveted to the bonnet with 2x 4mm rivets using a 4mm washer on the backing so not to crack the fiberglass.

Secure the bonnet to the side panel with gaffer tape.

Measure 70mm from the rear edge of the bonnet and drill and fit the bonnet catches.

The catch is fitted to the bonnet. If you drill 4mm holes at 10mm and 50mm above the lower section of the bonnet, this will be sufficient for the rubber catch to locate.

The rubber lock is mounted at 5mm and 23mm below the side panel.

Note: See how we use masking tape to mark the measurements on the side panels. This also prevents the fiberglass from splitting or chipping when drilling into it.

Repeat the above process for the front bonnet catch. This is also 70 mm from the front edge of the bonnet to maintain symmetry.

Repeat for the other side of the vehicle.

41. Fitting The Fuel Filler Cap

41.1. IVA Compliance

To ensure IVA compliance, the fuel cap needs to be either tethered to the car or have a non-removable key to prevent the cap from being left behind when the car is refuelled.

41.1.1. Aero Fuel Cap

This is achieved by drilling a small 3mm hole in the bottom of the fuel cap and connecting the cap via the centre bolt with a wire strap and a grub screw as per the picture below.

41.1.2. Lockable Vented Fuel Cap

For IVA compliance this cap does not need to be tethered as you cannot remove the key when the cap is open.

41.2. Fitting the Fuel Cap

Fit the fuel cap to the rear of the car.

Ensure the fuel cap is in line with the fuel filling point on the tank. You can do this by putting the 51mm filler hose on the tank and viewing this from the rear of the car.

Mark down 90mm from the edge of top of the rolled bodywork.

Using the hole saw kit, drill a 57mm hole.

Drill the 6 holes (4.5) for bolting the fuel cap to the bodywork.

Cut the supplied fuel hose to the required length and clamp the fuel hose to the tank and to the fuel cap using the wire hose clamps.

Using the M4 bolts supplied, secure the cap to the bodywork.

42. Fitting the exhaust & bracket

The kit comes with an exhaust mounting bracket and a rubber bobbin. The bracket needs to be drilled in two positions using an M8 drill bit. Dimensions for hole positions are shown below.

Fit the bobbin to the bracket.

Fit the exhaust link pipe to either the standard Mazda manifold or to the turbo and (using appropriate support) then trial fit the silencer ensuring it is in the correct position parallel to the side panel.

Fit the bracket to the silencer using an M8 x 16mm bolt and washer.

From under the car mark the floor pan through the holes drilled in the bracket and drill through with an 8mm drill. Using 2 x M8 x 30mm bolts and 30mm washers push bolts through the floor pan.

Because of the thickness of the side panel, it is necessary to space the bracket off of the floor pan using 3 or 4 washers. Fit washers and Nyloc nuts to secure bracket.

Note: You may need to remove a section on the side panel return lip for the washer spacers.

43. Fitting The Stripe Kit

43.1. Side Stripes

Wash the side of the vehicle with soapy water. Carefully peel off the backing paper of the side stripes Stripes are fitted to the sides of the vehicle 40mm from the lower edge of the car and can be moved into place thanks to the soapy water.

Using a squeegee, remove all the air bubbles and water from the stripes and leave to dry for approx. 24 hrs.

Carefully peel off the transparent layer from the stripes.

Top Tip: Use a scalpel to peel the backing away from the transparent layer to prevent the stripe from lifting.

43.2. Rear Panel Stripe

Measure between your roll over bar stays and mark a centre point of the centre line of the chassis.

Measure the centre of the bottom of the rear panel.

Wash the rear panel with soapy water.

Mark the centre of the stripe on the transparent front of the rear stripe.

Carefully remove the backing of the stripe

Line up the top of the rear stripe with the centre points previously marked on both the bodywork and the stripe.

Move into place to ensure the stripe is vertical using your measurement and “by eye”.

Using a credit card, remove the bubbles and soap from behind the graphics and leave for 24 hrs to dry.

43.3. Bonnet Stripe

Mark a centre point of the scuttle panel

Mark the centre point of the nose cone

Wash the panels with soapy water.

Mark the centre of the stripe on the transparent front of the rear stripe.

Carefully remove the backing of the stripe

Line up the top of the rear stripe with the centre points previously marked on both the bodywork and the stripe.

Move into place to ensure the stripe is vertical using your measurement and “by eye”.

Using a credit card, remove the bubbles and soap from behind the graphics and leave for 24 hrs to dry.

44. Fitting the Side Panel Caps.

Position the side panel caps with predrilled holes on the inside of the car.

Drill through using s 4mm drill bit and secure with 2 x 4mm black rivets.

45. Fitting The Boot Cover

Lay the boot cover over the rear tub and over the harness posts.

Starting with the rivets between the harness posts and around the roll over hoop, pull the cover tight and drill through both the cover and fibreglass / cross member using a 3.5mm drill bit.

Fit the press stud bases to the chassis / bodywork using 3.2mm rivets.

Once the cover is fitted between the harness posts and around the roll over hoop, start fitting the press studs to the rear tub starting in the centre and working out. Pull the cover tight before drilling through ensuring the cover is level and the studs are in line.

We recommend spacing the studs at approx. 140mm apart however you may wish to add more should you wish.

As the holes are drilled, insert a rivet to hold the cover in position and work your way around the car.

With the cover off the car push the outer black part of the press stud through the cover and push on the inner part. Using the special tool that comes with the kit and a hammer, roll the stud over the outer part.

46. Fitting The Lights

Note: These fitting instructions are for the standard light bulb lighting pack and not the LED version

45.1. Fitting the Number Plate Light

The number plate light is fitted in the centre of the rear panel approx. 150 mm from the bottom of the rear panel.

Note: If you are fitting the vinyl stripe kit, make sure this is done prior to fitting the rear number plate light.

45.2. Fitting The Fog Light

The fog light is fitted to the right-hand side of the bodywork. The centre of the light is 75mm from the bottom of the panel, and approx. 150mm from the edge side of the bodywork.

Note: For IVA compliance, the fog light needs an aluminium right-angle bracket 15mm x 15mm fitted at the top of the light, so the light is 90° to the road surface.

45.3. Fitting the Reverse Light

The reverse light is fitted to the left-hand side of the bodywork. The centre of the light is 75mm from the bottom of the panel, and approx. 150mm from the edge side of the bodywork the same as the fog light.

Measure a standard number plate width of 520mm and ensure the reverse light is the same measurement from the “number plate” as the fog light.

Note: To match the fog light please repeat the aluminium right-angle bracket 15mm x 15mm fitted at the top of the light, so the light is 90° to the road surface.

 

45.4. Fitting the Rear Lights

If using the LED type rear lights, you can use the MK supplied template as shown below.

Line up the template with the inner edge of the wheel arch and with the bottom and tape into place.

With light cluster positioned in place, level up both lights and drill outer mounting hole with a 5mm drill bit. Fix lights, with foam pad behind using M5 bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts.

When using the more traditional light clusters, these are fitted approx. 50mm from the inner edge of the bodywork and 160mm from the bottom of the light to the middle of the rear wing.

45.5. Fitting the Front Headlights

The headlights are bolted to purpose made brackets which are bolted to the front top wishbone mounting bracket.

Take a pair of indicators from the kit and remove the outer rubber, push fit the indicators into the brackets threading the wires through the bracket. The indicators are marked with ‘TOP’ to show orientation. Ensure top is at the top.

Note: It may be necessary to remove some of the powder coat from the inside of the tube using a circular file to enable the indicator to be pushed in.

Remove top wishbone bolt and fit bracket to both sides of the car. Check that an 80mm bolt has been used here so that there is enough thread going into the Nyloc nut on the other side.

Thread a piece of wire through the headlight wire sheathing (this will form the 12v supply for the indicator). Use green/white trace for the offside and green/red trace for the nearside.

Threading the wires (not the indicator wires) through the headlight washer and nut fit the headlight loosely to the bracket.

For IVA compliance, cut down a rubber boot used for the steering joints and fix this over the thread of the headlight.

45.6. Fitting the Front Indicators Classic Nose Cone

The front indicators need to be positioned a maximum of 400mm from the outermost edge of the vehicle.

Indicator extension bars are used to space the indicators from the nose cone to the correct location. The spacers are 150mm long.

47. Fitting the dashboard

Tape the dashboard to the scuttle ensuring there are no sharp edges sticking up above the scuttle. Mark the centre of the dashboard and from the centre mark 100mm to the left and the right.

From your 100mm marks measure outwards 170mm 3 times as shown below. Mark the holes to be drilled ensuring they are approx. 12mm from the edge of the dashboard.

Once marked, drill through both the dashboard and the scuttle in one go using a 5mm drill and repeat for all 8 holes.

Remove the dashboard and enlarge the holes in the scuttle and fit M5 size Rivnuts.

Fit dashboard using 8 x M5 black button head bolts.